Sitting at Warfield Riverfront Park just outside Greenville, MS on a grey misty morning. I wanted to get to this park last night to camp, but in hindsight, I think a pristine sandbar was a better choice. It’s fine, it’s got designated campsites, electric, water and bathrooms, but seems pretty muddy and dank compared to a nice sandy beach. Plus all these trees and pavilions give me a little claustrophobia after living on the wide open sandbars for the last 20ish days.
I got a bit of rain and some lightning from 4am til about 7:30 this morning, so got a little later start than normal, but the wind promises to be calmer and maybe even a little tailwind today, so am gonna get back out there for more miles after charging up some batteries.
Wanted to give a bit more description of yesterday’s paddle day with stiff headwinds all day, and what that means to a big river paddler. Three days ago, the headwind was likely 20 – 20mph, which at that point, even with hard paddling, you are unlikely to make more than 1 to 2mph paddling hard, and that’s slower than the current. So best not to be paddling in that. Yesterday, with 10 – 15mph headwinds, I could still make decent progress with hard paddling, maybe 4-5mph, where with no wind, I’d probably be doing 5-6mph. So it was doable, not enough to take the day off.
When paddling into that 10-15mph headwind, you are going to see whitecaps. In my boat, those waves rarely splash over into my cockpit, so I have yet to don the skirt that would cover my lower body and keep the water out of the cockpit. Most of the time, I am gauging where the wind is blowing from, then try to find the most sheltered part of the river to paddle in to minimize the stiff wind in my face and paddling into waves. If the river is bending, you paddle over to the side that is somewhat sheltered from the wind and you find calmer water, theoretically. Of course the sides of the river tend to be where the slower water is, so there’s that tradeoff. Then once the bend ends, you need to cross the river to the other side, where you might find more sheltered water, and you deal with the worst of the waves and current out in the middle of the river, all while watching for passing barges.
You also cannot stop paddling, lest your boat turns sideways and now you are being pushed upstream, actually losing miles. My last 3 hours of paddling yesterday was on a straight section of river, thus no curves or banks to block the wind, it was hard paddling straight into the waves. My shoulders and arms were cooked come 5:30pm.
For better or worse, probably worse, I did put a hard cap on my finish date on this trip, which is Oct. 30th at the Gulf. There I will meet someone to drive me and my boat back to New Orleans where I’ll rendezvous with the national community of Hash House Harriers for some halloween weekend debauchery and running. So I am motivated to get miles each day, minimize time off the river wherever possible and keep making progress.
One other interesting phenomenon I noticed the last couple days. When paddling, what seems like very far of in the distance is a huge mid-river sandbar. Not that unusual, the from what seems like a distance of 5+ miles, the sandbar looks immense – like 8 – 10 feet high and a perfectly rounded shape. After a couple minutes of paddling, you soon realize that sandbar is only about 1 mile away, and it’s only about a foot high. Barely out of the water. Not a great idea to camp on these guys, as you’re likely to get swamped by a big barge wake, or heaven forbid you get a foot rise in the river level overnight.
My next town I plan to stop at is Vicksburg, MS, around 98 miles downstream. By then I will have left Arkansas and will be in the great state of Lousiana. Onward and downward, with hopefully a nice tailwind.
PS – as I was sitting here typing, a friendly camper came over and handed me a bag of sandwiches, donuts, snacks and drinks and told me God bless when I told here where I was headed. Doesn’t look like any beer, but I’ll take what I can get. River angels provide.
mf
Paddle St. Louis 