Tag: hiking

3 Miles from the Ohio

Yesterday’s experience of paddling with a couple buddies, then having the chance to somewhat randomly meet up with two old river pals, along with sharing my story with some local Cape Giardans in a pub on Sunday night, really filled my soul. I love days like that on the river. I draw energy from those days when you have a day like today.

Not a bad day at all, in fact a pretty good day, just a lot different from the warmth of yesterday. Started out cloudy with some drizzling here and there, but I made my way out of Cape amid the morning barge rush. I soon passed Thebes, IL, then set my sights on a pin I’d marked on my google map. A few years ago, a friend showed me a picture he took of a petroglyph that illustrated several rivers and confluences, carved into a massive boulder. An ancient Native American map for past river travelers. I was intrigued and my friend guarded its location closely. After enough pestering, I finally got him to tell me where it is, him knowing I’m an avid river traveller and will also keep its location secret.

I pulled into where I thought it looked promising, then explored the boulders strewn around the banks. I scoured each stone, looking for carvings or figures. Finally, I thought I found it – it certainly looked like a system of rivers and tributaries.

After I departed and had reception again, I sent my buddy the picture – and apparently it was not it. Alas, more adventures to be had in the future. But just having this petroglyph exist causes me to acknowledge what a tiny drop of water I am in this massive river that’s been flowing for thousands of years. The river I am seeing today bears no resemblance to the river even 100 years ago, it’s constantly changing, despite the Army Corps’ best efforts. People have been travelling this river for thousands of years, yes even before it was “discovered” by Hernan DeSoto in 1542. Me and the loopers aren’t really novelties doing long distances on the Mississippi, it’s been done, like for forever. And a map carved into a boulder proves it.

Anyway, I churned out a few more miles through the afternoon, passing and being passed by quite a few barges and loopers. Cloudy, intermittent drizzle and headwinds seemed to prevail most of the day. At one point, I was paddling to the Northwest, with Illinois on my left, and Missouri on my right. The river is pretty crooked like that.

Later in the day, slogging along and getting pretty hungry, I passed under the I-57 bridge, then set up camp after a couple more miles, just north of the confluence with the Ohio – mile 3 of the upper Mississippi if you’re keeping score at home. About 46 miles on the day.

Tomorrow, I’ll take on the confluence, where the Ohio more than doubles the volume of the Mississippi. Today was the first day of this trip that I paddled new-to-me river!

mf

St. Nicholas Landmark – Dinking with Legends

Currently sitting inside of St. Nicholas Landmark, which is my favorite place in Chester, IL. Why? 12 of their own beers on tap, solid food, and most importantly, they are about 100ft from the boat ramp (just watch for the trains walking across the tracks). I can’t quite see my boat from my window seat, but hopefully it will be fine for the time it takes to drink a few beverages. 

Sidebar – I once tried to walk here from my house in STL city. 24 Hours from Home Challenge #1 in 2021. #6 starts in 6 days – 24hfhchallenge.com! Alas, my 24 hours expired 3 miles short, after 74 miles I could barely stand, let alone stay awake so didn’t make it on that occasion. 

Spent last night on a massive sandbar – Magnolia Hollow Conservation Area. Although it’s an island, apparently there is a road connection as there was a farmer plowing his field over the trees as the sun went down. Plenty of driftwood for a blazing fire, and found bones and pieces of petrified wood scattered around. I was set up on kind of a promontory in the middle of the curve of the river, so all night I had massive tugboats rolling by, the low hum of their engines revving to get up or downstream. I woke up around 11:30pm to a growling beast, looked out and saw a monstrosity of a barge with pilons and construction equipment. This tug was pushing as hard as it could, maybe getting 1mph upstream. I momentarily questioned if I pulled my boat high enough out of the water to not be swept up in its huge wake, and even ran down to the shore in my skivees just to check. It was fine. 

Woke up with the first light on the eastern horizon and what do I see, some fresh paw prints next to the door of my tent. As my friend Bill told me a bit later in the morning, probably a coyote sniffing around late at night, all stealth like. So the reason I had the chance to meet Bill again, well. Arriving at Magnolia and unpacking, I realized I was a bag short – my cookware. I shot a few texts to my wife Sara to check at home, and Bill who shuttled me back home from the arch on Thursday. Luckily it was in Bill’s truck, under some other gear. 

As luck would have it and River Angels being the saviors they are, Bill drove it down this morning to Modoc Ferry in St. Genevieve where he even brought me breakfast and coffee. Bill, I love you. 

Last night, with my limited cel service – it worked standing up, but not sitting down, go figure – I saw the the opening time of St. Nick Landmark was 11am so that’s where I planned to be. A beautiful morning coming down about 20 miles brought me into Chester and delightful refreshments. Afternoon plan is do bank a few more miles and find another sandbar, coyotes or not. 

mf